The South West Coast Path takes on a whole new identity in autumn and winter. This time of year brings a different world to explore, as colours change and weekend walks become windswept adventures.
Lush green woodlands give way to warm seas of orange, the cliffs are battered with white water, and the calm, crisp mornings are quieter than ever. With all this going on around us, what better way to shake off the summer than an out-of-season escapade?
Here, I’ve listed 5 of my favourite autumn and winter walks along the Coast Path, from a cosy fishing village draped in Christmas lights, to a wild and windy trek steeped in legend. So, what else to do but wrap up warm, don the waterproof and get strolling?
1. Mount Edgcumbe – 4.3 miles
The quick and casual walk around Mount Edgcumbe is a great year-round amble, with well-kept, easy-going paths. Its unique charm makes it hard to believe you’re mere minutes from the hustle and bustle of Plymouth! In October and November, the woodland is awash with autumnal colours and crunchy leaves underfoot. In the winter it makes for an ideal escape from Christmas shopping, or a wholesome prelude to Plymouth’s popular Christmas market!
Early in the route, you’ll see the 16th century Maker Church, home to the Edgcumbe family vault, as well as the ancient St Julians well-chapel and holy well. You’ll come across industrial ruins along the river, followed by some historic buildings before entering Mount Edgcumbe House and Country Park.
It’s well worth stopping to admire the impressive house and gardens, though you can’t enter these areas outside of the peak season. There’s plenty more to see on this walk, including excellent views of Drake’s Island and a crumbling folly which can be scaled for even better views.
Although the historic house and Earl’s Garden are closed during Autumn and Winter, the grounds are open between 8 AM and 6 PM. The pub, aptly named The Mount Edgcumbe, is open year-round for a hearty meal or warming drink by the fire.
The ferry from Plymouth runs on weekends until early November, but winter walkers will have to take the long way around via the Tamar Bridge.
For the full route description, visit our Mount Edgcumbe walk page.
2. Tintagel King Arthur Walk – 3.4 miles
Nothing brings the legend of King Arthur to life like a stomp around his supposed birthplace with fierce, wintry weather to set the mood! This makes an excellent walk when the sea is at its angriest, dousing the famous Tintagel Castle with sea spray, while a ghostly 8-foot statue of King Arthur stands strong in the weather.
The walk starts at Tintagel Visitor Centre, before heading through the town and up to Glebe Cliff. This is a great place to spot Fulmars, Kittiwakes and Gannets in the Autumn, and home to the windswept St Materiana Church, perfect for an escape from the wind. From here, carry on towards Tintagel head, with views of the impressive bridge, craggy cliffs and the castle ruins.
You’ll then drop down to Tintagel Haven, a great place to observe crashing waves, before carrying on around the headland. Pass Barra’s Nose with some fantastic views, before curving inland back to Tintagel.
There are a few cosy pubs in Tintagel to round off your walk, as well as a great fish and chip shop. At this time of year, enjoy your takeaway in a quintessentially british setting – sheltering from the weather in a warm car!
Read our Tintagel King Arthur Walk page for more details.
3. Charmouth to West Bay – 7.1 miles
The longest walk on this list, this one’s not for the faint-hearted, especially in the harsher months! Nonetheless, some iconic spots along the Jurassic Coast make the hilly terrain well worthwhile.
This time of year is ideal for fossil hunting at Charmouth, where unsettled seas disturb the cliffs to expose new pieces of history. Golden Cap makes a dramatic and windy spot for watching the ocean, while nearby Bridport is a homely haven for Christmas Shopping, with weekly markets and plenty of antique vendors.
Start the walk at Charmouth beach, but not without having a look for fossils and popping into the fascinating Charmouth Heritage Coast Centre, open Fridays, Saturdays, Sundays and Mondays in winter. From here, it’s up over the cliffs and along the Monarch’s Way towards Golden Cap, the highest point on England’s South Coast. You’ll soon descend into Seatown, where you can stop for a rest and some food, before heading up to the cliffs again. There’s a great viewpoint at Thorncombe Beacon, and it’s not much longer to West Bay’s towering sandstone cliffs.
West Bay has a golden beach and a lot of eating and drinking establishments for relaxing post-walk. I’d also recommend tacking on a trip to Bridport, either by taking the regular bus, or walking the extra mile and a half. This charming town has plenty going on, with bustling weekend markets and plenty of food and drink vendors, making it the perfect spot for some Christmas shopping.
For full walk details, you’ll need our Seaton to Seatown and Seatown to Abbotsbury pages – this walk straddles both routes.
4. Valley of Rocks Woodland Walk – 6.3 miles
Exploring woodlands around the spectacular Valley of Rocks, this walk was picked specifically with autumn in mind. The forest is especially pretty during October and November, and views of the Valley of Rocks are as dramatic as ever on a harsh, windy day. For an extra layer to this walk, bring a fungi guide with you and see how many species you can spot along the way! The paths can be challenging on this walk, so be sure to bring a good pair of boots and take it slow if necessary.
The walk begins at Lynton and Lynmouth Cricket Club, before heading up to the cliffs. Here you’ll then wind around the rugged rock formations, with a chance to climb up Castle Rock for some spectacular views. After this, follow the road past the historic Lee Abbey and down through Lee Bay.
Soon you’ll snake around Crock Point and enter Croscombe Wood. You’ll then take a bridleway through Bonhill Wood, along the river and over a bridge, before entering Caffyns Heanton Wood. The final section of woodland is Six Acre Wood, taking you back past Lee Abbey and onto the open heathland opposite the Valley of Rocks. Here there are some breathtaking views of the valley and rock formations, before you drop back down to the cricket club.
Lynton and Lynmouth are a short walk away and both packed with eateries. I recommend the Rising Sun in Lynmouth, a thatched 14th century pub with a particularly homely atmosphere. It’s also worth taking a moment to watch the waves at Lynmouth harbour and popping into the National Park Centre for a browse or light lunch in their cafe.
There are full route details on our Valley of Rocks Woodland Walk page.
5. Penzance to Mousehole – 3.6 miles
Although a lovely walk at any time of the year, this short stroll is wonderful in winter, punctuated by the sparkling Christmas lights of Mousehole harbour. Most of the route is paved too, making for easier walking in bad weather.
Starting at Penzance Harbour, trace the harbour past the Jubilee Pool, one of the best examples of an Art Deco lido in the country. Unfortunately, the pool is closed outside of the peak season, but there’s always the sea if you fancy a bracing dip! Carry on along the seafront, passing plenty of historical features, before reaching the busy fishing port of Newlyn. Mackerel Sky is a great place to stop off for food here, serving small plates of local seafood, though they’re closed from mid December to early February.
After Newlyn, there’s a short stretch of Coast Path walking before you rejoin Cliff Road and continue towards Mousehole. Reaching this charming village is a magical moment; with chocolate box cottages and a quaint harbour, it’s no wonder Dylan Thomas called it ‘the prettiest village in England’. The harbour lights are lit in December every year, turning this picturesque fishing village into a winter wonderland.
There are regular buses which run from Mousehole back to Penzance until almost midnight, which is miraculous for Cornwall! Why not walk from Penzance in the afternoon, reaching Mousehole just in time to see the harbour lights after dusk? You could tuck into some food and drink in one of Mousehole’s warm pubs, before heading back to Penzance on the bus – sounds like the perfect winter walk to me!
Read our Penzance to Mousehole walk page for the full route.
That rounds up my list of autumn and winter walks, though it certainly doesn’t cover all of them. Any stretch of the 630-mile South West Coast Path can be done outside of the peak months, as long as you’re up for it!
With less traffic on the path, changing scenery and a different type of adventure to be had, what are you waiting for?
Guest blog written by Barney Munn, SWCPA Communications Volunteer.
The South West Coast Path 