Dennis and I started walking the path on 18th April 2016. Looking back in my ‘Little Yellow Log Book’, the first entry reads, ‘Whose idea was this in the first place?’. It definitely seemed a daunting task, but after walking the ‘Tour du Mont Blanc’ in July 2014 and 120 miles of the ‘Camino de Santiago’ in June 2016, we thought that we ought to put the idea of starting the South West Coast Path into practice, so set off from Minehead for just 2 days, walking as far as Lynton. Once we had started, we were hooked and with every section being different from another, were keen to see what the SWCP had to offer.
Walking from Hartland Quay to Bude on 19th July 2016 was one of the hottest days that year. Luckily, I had an umbrella to shield me from the sun. The section was marked as severe and 15.5 miles, parts of which we had walked before. We set off early at 7.45 am and plodded on, running out of water by the time we got to the Devon/Cornwall border. We had friends at Duckpool who fed and watered us and set us off on the last few miles to Bude, where all I was looking forward to was a pint of cider at the local pub!
We walked as far as Porthcothan that first year and due to a domestic dispute, the following year, 2017, just one section was walked, to Newquay.
The SWCP had, by now though, got into our blood and had to be completed. Our differences were set aside and with the path as our driving force, we stayed together. In 2018, we walked the rest of Cornwall and just over the border into Devon, as far as Wembury. All was well. In 2019, Dennis faced an aortic valve operation and the day before the op, we walked 3 miles from Wembury to the ferry point at the River Yealm, and back.
Unfortunately, something went wrong after the operation and Dennis spent 13 weeks in Intensive Care, and another 13 weeks recovering in Rehabilitation. He came home on 24th January 2020. On 7th September 2020, Dennis felt strong enough to recommence the walk, with amazing resilience and determination. After his operation, he needed a lot more assistance. I carried the rucksack, helped him over difficult sections, stopped him from walking sections that I knew would be far too strenuous for him. On steep hills, I helped haul him up, hooking my fingers through his belt hooks. This put a strain on my body, but together, we got there! Nothing was going to defeat him and even though he found climbing the hills a huge challenge, he got there in the end.
Our walks were shorter and planning accommodation, buses, taxis and logistics became an obsession for me. Dennis trusted my plans and off we went, walking as far as Babbacombe by the end of September. We recommenced walking in April 2021 and got as far as Weymouth by mid-September. Dennis couldn’t walk the severe sections by now but was able to see me off at the beginning of each day and meet me at the end.
I walked from Seaton to Lyme Regis on my own, writing in my diary:
‘Saw a lady up front… She pointed out lots of Pyramid Orchids. Entered the undercliff, a National Nature Reserve created by landslip and now an area of virtual wildlife wilderness. The guidebook states “the Undercliff rarely offers sea views and can feel almost claustrophobic in places. There are no escape routes inland, nor safe paths to the seashore.” A sign before you enter says, “Please note that it takes 3.5 – 4 hours to walk to Lyme Regis. The terrain can be difficult and walking arduous. There is no permitted access to the sea or inland along this stretch of the path.”
I was a bit apprehensive of walking this stretch on my own, but knew I had to do it. I prayed that God would walk with me and guide my footsteps and keep me company. Having seen the lady who told me about the Pyramid orchids I felt reassured that someone else was in the vicinity, but funnily enough, I never saw her again!… Being on my own, I knew that I had to be extra careful and needed to make sure I didn’t fall. I found a broken branch and fashioned a sturdy walking stick which proved to be my “best friend” for the next few hours.
The path in front could be seen no more than 20 feet ahead as it twisted and turned. Trees, ferns, flowers and lots of blackbirds kept me company along the way…
Ater an hour, I came into a clearing at Charton Bay which was just under midway along the reserve. I met a lady who had come from Lyme Regis. We had a chat and she reassured me that I was safe and should enjoy my walk and experience in this woodland wilderness, created by landslips, years ago…
My time in the undercliff lasted around 2.5 hours. It was a true experience. I felt as if I’d been walking in a forest for days – and was glad to escape!! God had protected me, for which I am thankful.’
In September, we travelled to Spain to celebrate Dennis’ 82nd Birthday with his 2 sisters and brother. We had a super week, but sadly, Dennis took ill and ended up in hospital, where he unexpectedly died, 10 days later. So, it was up to me to complete the walk, which I did, with my best friend Debbie and her friend, in June 2022. We took 5 days to walk the last 40 miles from Weymouth to South Haven Point, walking the last couple of miles, barefoot, along Studland Beach. We celebrated with ‘sandy’ sandwiches, nestling in the sand dunes, sheltering from the wind, whilst waiting for the bus back to Swanage. It had been an emotional day, dedicated to Dennis, who I’m sure was with us, in spirit. I’m more than proud of our achievement and thank all at SWCP HQ for keeping the paths open and maintained, for all to enjoy.
Our walk was spread over 7 years. Walking is great for the soul. It gives you time to think and plan, reflect and embrace the surroundings, which along the SWCP is always changing. Walk a mile, walk a day, walk again. Dennis always said, ‘If I can walk a mile, then I can walk another’. If you don’t attempt life’s challenges, you’ll never achieve some of the best opportunities in life.
Guest blog written by Rose Heard.
The South West Coast Path 